Collection
Fly Tying Materials
Hooks, thread, feathers, hair, dubbing and flash, plus our own Spawn shanks and heads. Vises and gear live on our fly tying tools and vises page.
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Hareline India Hen Back
$7.83 -
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Hedron Shimmerbou
$6.25 -
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Uni Yarn
$2.34 -
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Loon UV Clear Fly Finish
$20.00 -
Hedron Flashabou Magnum
$8.08 -
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Hareline Sculpin Wool
$3.58 -
Spawn Fly Kit - Jetty Worm
$35.99 -
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70 Veevus Power Thread
$4.25
About our fly tying materials
This page is just the materials. Everything that ends up lashed to a hook, and nothing that sits on the bench. Vises and tools are on their own page.
Hooks and shanks set the size and shape of the fly. Thread holds it together. From there you build with feathers (hackle, marabou, CDC, mallard flank), hair and fur (deer, rabbit, bucktail), dubbing for bodies, and synthetics and flash for movement and shine. Beads, cones and eyes add weight and get a fly down fast in winter water.
Natural or synthetic? Marabou and deer hair breathe and move in the water. Synthetics hold their color, last longer and come in shades nature does not make. Most good flies use both.
If you are new, buy for one pattern at a time. A Woolly Bugger needs a hook, thread, marabou, chenille and a hackle feather. Tie a dozen, then branch out. Our fly tying kits put a first set in one box.
We stock our own Spawn shanks, heads, tails and dubbing next to the brands tiers already trust. Filter by type on the left.
Tying guide
Bench notes
Feathers for wings, collars, soft hackles. Beads for weight and a clean head. Shanks when the fly is articulated. Tools and adhesives sit next door as supplies.
By water
Trout: lighter hooks, softer fiber, smaller beads. Steelhead and salt: stronger wire, flash, materials that survive abrasive mouths.
Skill ladder
Beginner
Start with a vise and one materials chip: feathers or beads. Tie the same simple pattern until the wraps feel boring. Buy the next bag only when that bag is empty.
Getting comfortable
Add the category you keep running out of. If you fish trout nymphs, that is usually beads and dubbing. If you fish soft hackles, it is waterfowl. Stop filling every empty drawer.
Advanced / steelhead–salt
Build around the patterns you actually fish. Stronger wire, flash, articulated shanks, materials that survive abrasive mouths. Specialty packs (Select wood duck, football beads) earn their keep when the pattern calls for them, not because the shelf looks full.
We stock what we tie with in Ilwaco. Brands on the shelf are there because they show up in our own patterns.
Desk charts
Bench resources
These are the questions we get at the desk. Use them before you fill another drawer.
Bead to hook (quick)
Match bead OD to the hook eye and the sink rate you want. Too small and the fly never gets down. Too big and the head looks clumsy. Start in the middle of the size chart for that hook family, then go heavier only if the water asks for it.
Thread
Fine thread for small dry flies and clean heads. Stronger thread when you are packing deer hair, tying salt, or building articulated shanks. If the thread keeps cutting materials, step up a size before you blame the feather.
Hooks
Dry, nymph, jig, and saltwire are different jobs. Wire weight and gape matter more than the brand stamp on the box. Pick the hook for the water, then pull materials that fit that hook.
Where to go next
Feathers for wings and soft hackles. Beads when you need weight and a clean head. Shanks when the fly is articulated. Vises and scissors under Tools.
Common questions
Materials FAQ
What's the difference between fly tying materials and supplies?
Materials go on the hook: feathers, beads, shanks, dubbing, flash. Tools and adhesives are supplies. Different job, different aisle.
What should I buy for freshwater vs saltwater or steelhead?
The biggest difference is the hook. Every material can be used in both freshwater and saltwater, whether the label says so or not. Some just make more sense than others. CDC isn't a popular saltwater material, but that doesn't mean you can't use it.
Think about the size and class of fish you're targeting, and let that decide what you buy. Chasing small brook trout? A light wire hook is fine. Winter steelhead on the coast need a stronger hook to tie on. Going after GTs? You'll need a serious saltwater-specific hook.
Where should a beginner start?
Start with a vise, bobbin, whip finisher and scissors. Then pick a simple pattern for a species you want to target. Buy the materials and tie that pattern over and over, improving each time through. Then hit the water! You don't need to master every pattern before fishing your flies.
Where do you ship from?
From the Ilwaco, Washington shop. Nationwide.
Are sale items on this hub?
No. This hub is full price. Timed Select feather deals live on the Tying Room Clearance collection when a sale is running.
Do I need every category before I start tying?
To start tying you'll need hooks, a vise, a few basic tools, and some natural or synthetic materials, so you will need items from a few categories. But you don't need a wide selection to start. Start simple and expand from there!
How do I match beads to hooks?
Start with the bead size chart for that hook family (eye OD and desired sink). For trout nymphs, middle of the chart is usually enough. Step up only when the seam is fast or deep. Football and slotted tungsten behave differently in the water; buy the shape your pattern calls for.
Do you have charts for thread and hooks?
Yes. Use the Bench resources notes on this page for bead, thread, and hook basics. For Select waterfowl grading and soft-hackle vs wing feathers, open the Fly Tying Feathers collection.