60º Jiggy Dungeon:
"Let it be known, that I did not invent this pattern. I took the existing Sex Dungeon, a Kelly Galloup pattern, and adapted the principles using some different and new materials." -Allen Cambell
Allen, who is a phenomenal tier who we've had the pleasure of getting to know over the last 2 years, isn't alone when it comes to adding a touch of Spawn to classic patterns. Around the world we are seeing this trend of tweaking some of the greatest patterns in our box by adding an element of Spawn! From our Spawn Heads to our Spawn Shanks and everything in-between, Spawn has found its place in many fly boxes. For this we are extremely thankful and cannot wait to see what tiers like Allen do next! We hope you enjoy this awesome step by step!
Step 1: Secure a Gamakatsu #6 B10S to the vise, lay down a thread base and invert the hook.
Step 2: Tie in a length of marabou, the length of the hook shank or slightly longer off the back of the hook.
Step 3: Tie in a sparse amount of ripple ice fiber or flash on either side of the marabou tail.
Step 4/5: Tie in another tuft of marabou above the first one. Tie in small diameter, brassie wire and a length of small to medium chenille.
Step 6/7: Wrap the chenille forward and tie off. Tie in a hackle feather, stem first so that the point of the feather points rearward.
Step 8: Wrap the hackle feather rearwards in open spiral wraps. Tie off the feather when you get to the rear with the brassie wire. Continue wrapping the brassie forward in open spiral wraps until you get to the eye of the hook then tie off.
Step 9: Tie in a wing of marabou fading only 1/2 to 1/3 of the way into the tail.
Step 10: Tie in two rubber legs on each side and whip finish.
Step 11: Attach the 60* jig shank to the hook so that the eye of the shank and the point of the hook are on the same side of the fly, pointing up!
TIP: Before removing hook from the vice, attach the jig shank to the hook. It’s easier to attach this way.
Step 12: After placing the jig shank in the vise, close the gap in the wire with thread and attach the dumbbell eyes on the bottom of the shank where the two wires meet.
Step 13: Tie in a short tail to cover the connection between shank and hook, tie in ripple ice fiber too.
Step 14: Tie in two more rubber legs on each side.
Step 15: Tie in a collar of deer hair to extend approximately a 1/3 of the way back on the fly. This is meant to simulate the pectoral fins of a sculpin and will help stabilize the fly in the water.
Step 16: Tie in a small pinch of deer hair on top and bottom of the hook, both behind the eyes and in front of the eyes.
Step 17: Tie off thread in front of all the deer hair. Things will be a little messy as this point, take your time.
Step 18: Trim the head to the desired shape!
I recommend starting on the bottom of the fly to give you some space and help you get the angle you want for the top of the head. Typically I use razors to trim deer hair, however, with the jig shank pointing up, getting in the way, I find it’s more effective to use scissors.
Take your time and cut little by little until you feel comfortable. Remember, you can always cut more off but you can’t put it back on!
If anyone has any questions or suggestions, feel free to reach out to Allen @amcampbell_flyfishing (Instagram) or firstname.lastname@example.org (email).