Articulated FNF Creeper Leech:
Not all flies have to be pretty. They do need to catch fish. This fly is a great example. Simple, perhaps not exactly frame worthy, but more than willing to produce when the regulars just aren’t working. Have some fun with this pattern. That’s the ultimate catch.
Weight - .015 Non Lead Wire
Hook - Ahrex SA280 sz8
Thread - Uni 6/0 Orange
Tail - Orange Squirmy Worm
Body - (both sections) FNF Creeper Prawn
Shank - Spawn Micro 60* Jig Shank
Collar - Orange Hareline Mallard Flank
Bead - Hareline Mottled Tactical Slotted 3.8mm
Loon Hard Head
Step 1: Place your hook in the vise. Watch your fingers as you’re tying. Short shanks and sharp hook points require one’s attention.
Step 2: Begin your thread on the hook shank and cover down to where the shank begins to curve. Wrap back a few turns of thread so you are roughly one-two hook eye lengths shy of the eye.
Step 3: Tie in a section of Squirmy Worm that leaves a tail just a bit longer than the length of the hook and shank combined. When you tie in the Squirmy material it may be easier to begin it on the near side of the hook shank facing you. This material has a lot of give and this will help you to secure it eventually on the top of the shank. Make at least 3 full back and forth passes with your thread.
Step 4: Tie in a section of FNF Creeper about 6 inches long. This will give you enough material to cover both the hook and jig shank. Make sure your Creeper is tied in all the way back to your previous thread wraps so that as you begin to wrap the Creeper it will act as a natural guide for the tail, preventing any chance of the tail fouling. Advance your thread to the hook eye.
Step 5: Wrap the Creeper up the hook shank with touching wraps. For this example I used 5 wraps. Tie off securely and make a neat thread head. Apply 2 whip finishes and apply some cement to the thread wraps.
Step 6: Before attaching your hook to the jig shank, slip your bead onto the shank. Attach your hook to the Spawn 60* Micro Jig Shank with the point of the hook facing upward. Apply enough wraps of .015 non lead to be able to slide into the bead to hold it in position. As you can see in the photo I then use the tag end of the wire to meet where the shank arm will meet the shank. Securely cover the shank and wire with thread wraps and a thin coat of cement.
Step 7: Tie in the remaining piece of FNF Creeper. As you wrap keep in mind the spacing we will need for the mallard collar.
Step 8: Wrap the Creeper up the shank leaving roughly one bead length of room for the tie off and the feather collar.
Step 9: Select a mallard feather with fibers that will reach just past the trailing hook. Since the Creeper body has the legs protruding there is not much chance of any fibers interfering with the hook point. Trim the fibers at the tip of the feather for a tie in section. You want to begin wrapping at the point the fibers become fairly uniform in length. Tie in your feather with the top (convex) side facing the ceiling. As you wrap your feather you must guide the fibers in your off hand to face the rear of the fly. Having wet fingers will make this much easier. Also take your time and try to not trap any fibers as you’re wrapping.
Step 10: Wrap your mallard flank feather 2-3 times to fill in the collar space. Tie off and remove the excess quill. After making a neat thread collar whip finish twice and apply cement. Thanks for tying along and we can’t wait to see what you all tie and catch with this pattern!
Be sure to checkout Pete on social for many more amazing flies tied using Spawn. @blueriverflies! Here are a few of his variations of this fly!