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Jul 08, 2021

Beach Bug!

Who doesn't enjoy a good crab or shrimp fly? The real find for me is a pattern like the Beach Bug, designed by Eric Balser out of Mount Vernon, WA. This fly replicates immature crab and shrimp on another level. SImple to tie, catches tons of fish and is easily adaptable to any water situation with color or weight change. That's a winning fly. If you've stayed away from crab or shrimp flies, this is a great pattern to learn for confidence on the vise and on the water. Thanks for tying along and enjoy this amazing pattern.

Materials List:

Hook: Umpqua XS 506 size 6

Bead: Spawn Fly Fish Slotted Tungsten Football Bead 6mm Crayfish Brown

Thread: UniThread Camel 6/0

Weighted Wire: NL .015

Eyes: Hareline Mono Eyes Large

Head/Body: Spawn UV Ghost Shrimp and Spawn Ghost Shrimp Simi Seal

Shell(s): Hen Pheasant Neck Feather

Sealant: Liquid Fusion

Step 1: Slip your Football Bead onto your hook with the point going through the small hole first. Once securely in the vise, add 12 wraps of .015 non lead wire, trim both ends and smooth and then slide into the back of the bead to secure. We want the full bottom of the bead on the underside of the jig hook and the slot on what will be the top of our fly.

Step 2: Begin your thread behind your wire wraps and proceed to cover the wire wraps with some angled thread wraps before some stronger wraps that run parallel with the wire. Take your thread down to the hook bend.

Step 3: Tie in 8-10 Jumbo Guinea Fibers so the natural curve will follow the hook bend. Once we wrap over them with some dubbing the effect will be slightly more noticeable, so no need to wrap down too far.

Step 4: Now we will add a pair of Mono Eyes on the inside of the hook shank. Use figure 8 wraps followed by wraps in front and behind the eyes. Tying them on the inside of the shank allows for some extra abuse before they are removed.

Step 5: Add enough UV Ghost Shrimp Simi Seal to your thread to form a tight, 3 inch dubbing noodle. Use this to wrap around and in front and behind the eyes. Now take your thread to behind the bead.

Step 6: Now we will make another dubbing noodle using the regular Ghost Shrimp Simi. This body will be dubbed to the head and mono eyes and dubbed over itself back to behind the bead.

Step 7: Gently brush out the head and body Simi fibers. No need to trim or get too crazy with the fibers at this point. We'll mash them down when we add the feather shell.

Step 8: Remove 2 matching feathers from the neck, or collar section of a hen pheasant. Once trimmed the feather should reach from the bead to just past the Mono Eyes.

Step 9: Tie in a feather on the top side of the fly. Two gentle wraps for placement followed by a couple stronger thread wraps should keep your feather from turning.

Step 10: Dorsal view after tying in.

Step 11: Now repeat the process on the bottom side of the hook. Once the excess feather has been trimmed, make a neat thread neck and tie off with two whip finishes.

Step 12: To finish this fly you can use resin, cement or even nail hardener. But my favorite way to finish this fly is with a healthy dose of Liquid Fusion coated over the thread wraps, base of each feather and slightly pulled up the quill on each. This provides minimal protection to the feather fibers, but it adheres the quill and Simi Seal together nicely. Let the Liquid Fusion dry for a full 24 hours for the strongest bond before you start feeding these to your favorite crab and shrimp lovers.

Jul 02, 2021

Hooks, Beads and the Fish who eat them.

Flies are fun to tie and offer so much enjoyment and connection to the fly fishing passion we all share. But it can be tough to start adding different hooks and beads with the overwhelming options and prices. Fear no more. Let’s get the basics covered. A hook is used to catch a fish or occasional guide. A bead is used to add color, weight, flash and texture. Easy. Which bead goes with which hook? Not so easy. Or is it? Since many of you have seen some nymphs and small streamers, we’ll begin there. Hooks are different thicknesses, or gauges of metal that vary depending on use. Smaller dry fly hooks will have a substantially smaller shank diameter compared to even a size 8 2X strong streamer hook. Beads tend to follow the same logic. Smaller beads will have a smaller eye and cavity compared to larger sized beads. So with two variables that can only be learned from experience, there must be one common denominator that can help us make sense of beads until the experience has been... experienced.

Enter the art of SECURING a bead onto a hook. And for that we look to the weighted wire. Weighted wire comes in both lead and lead free versions and in enough sizes to make just about any bead/hook combo work. If we have a small shank hook and small bead, the weighted wire would also be small. Perhaps .015”. If we use the same hook and increase the bead size, simply changing the weighted wire to .020 or .025 will now allow you to secure a larger bead on that hook. There is still trial and error involved, but it’s much more effective to only have two or three sizes of weighted wire to alter the settings of a few beads and hooks.

Now we have our bead on the hook and in the vise. What is the easiest way to utilize the weighted wire? Regardless of how many wraps of wire, I always prefer to wrap down that many turns on the hook shank, but well behind the bead. This gives me room to make clean cuts on both ends of my wraps which also means enough room to get the cut edges smoothed down with the insides of my curved scissors. Now when you slide the weighted wire into the back of the bead cavity it will be smooth and you do not risk scratching the bead.

Taking this one step further we get into slotted beads and jig hooks. The same premise applies but with the addition of some Super Glue Gel or similar product. The reason being you will sometimes have beads you do not want turning. The slot which makes beads usable on a jig hook is a prime example where having one size off either direction on your weighted wire makes the tying process a hundred times easier.

You can also secure beads on hooks with thread dams, small mounds of dubbing or other materials. Foam can be very effective as well. I have seen toothpicks glued in and snapped off, but I don’t recommend that as a top 3. Like many things that are new, tying with beads is a lot more fun than it can ever be intimidating. And the true beauty is most of the fish we pursue are not going to turn down a fly whose bead is the wrong size or slight askew. Tie a couple new flies, fish a couple new flies and learn a mountain’s worth of information. Just remember to have fun while you’re doing so.

One last note. Don’t use you nice, sharp, expensive scissors to cut wire. Use a cheap cuticle cutter type that will last longer than your hands and has a curve just right for smoothing down the edges of your trimmed wire. Practice even tension with your weighted wire wraps. It does have some pliability, so avoid extreme tension or your wraps may be inconsistent or you can break the wire. Thanks for reading and hope to see you on the water.

Jun 24, 2021

Wire Bodied Ant Step By Step

For the majority of our outdoor adventures we could do without ants. But for those who fish the ant gains a few notches on the respect meter. With so many species and such prolific hatches it is important to have a couple ant imitations in your fly box. And tossing a weighted ant is simply deadly. It's a great fly for kids to tie and fish for an instant connection between fish and the bugs they eat. These flies can take some punishment and will put fish in the net. Have some fun with the endless color options and thanks for tying along!

Materials List:

Hook: Mustad Streamer R73-9671 size 14

Threads: UniThread Red 8/0 and Doc Blue 8/0

Wires: Ultra Wire Red and Blue both small

Legs: Whiting Farms Bronze Rooster Saddle Hackle Black

Resin: Loon UV Clear Fly Finish Thin

Step 1: Place your hook in the vise and begin the red thread near the rear half of the hook shank. It may seem odd that we're using a streamer hook to tie essentially a nymph, but the extra hook gap will provide the hook setting capability we need without being oversized for the bug. Once you feel comfortable with the proportions you can adjust the hook to better accommodate your style.

Step 2: Tie in two 4" sections of the red wire. Why two? Good question. In my opinion it is much easier to get tight wire bodies when using multiple wires. It probably has more to do with tiny flaws being mashed together, but it has always worked better for me. The other reason is to better match the width of the hook shank. Even with a thread underbody it would be more difficult to keep the shape uniform with one wire underneath. What we want to keep in our mind's eye is the gap in the middle of our ant. If you can picture this butt of the ant as occupying one third of the total fly length, the middle gap would be just shy of one third and the head/thorax the remainder. Once the wires are tied down the proportions will try to creep inward. That is why we begin with a 1/3 gap mentally pictured.

Step 3: To achieve the proper taper for our underbody we are going to wrap our thread all the way back and forward one full time. On each repetition of this sequence you simply wrap one less wrap from the end as your previous pass. After 6-7 times of this you will have a little pill shaped underbody. We do not need a ton of shape here. Subtle is the most we are looking for. After we wrap the wires and add resin the shape will reveal itself.

Step 4: Carefully wrap the wires in touching wraps up the length of the underbody. Don't get discouraged if the wraps aren't perfect. The resin will help fill in some gaps and the fish do not care one bit. Carefully tie off your wires, neatly trim and cover with just a few thread wraps. Whip finish and cut the thread.

Step 5: Now we will add two very thin layers of Loon Thin UV resin. Be sure to fully cure with your UV torch after each layer.

Step 6: Now begin the blue thread on the hook shank.

Step 7: For our feather we want the fibers to be slightly longer than the hook gap distance. As you look at the top, or convex side (the side that looks nice), carefully remove the fibers from the right side of the quill. We only need a few fibers to get some attention. Tie in your feather with a small gap between the tie down of the red wire.

Step 8: Now wrap the feather 1.5 to 2 times and catch it with your thread. Trim the excess feather and wrap down the trimmed quill end.

Step 9: Now we will tie in two 4" pieces of our blue wire. This is not tied all the way back to the feather so there will be a definite space in the middle abdomen for our best chance at fooling some fish.

Step 10: Once again we will build a thread underbody for our wire, but this one will be slightly smaller than our rear underbody.

Step 11: Wrap your wires forward in touching wraps, tie down, trim the wires, cover with thread wraps and add two whip finishes. Cut your thread.

Step 12: Add two more very thin layers of Loon resin, curing after each application, and you now have a sinking ant that will provide you many a tight line. Be sure to try different colors and sizes and share with us any variations you tie! Thanks for tying!

Jun 17, 2021

Dog Day Fun - Summer Blog

Summer time fishing. High water temps, UV indexes, strange odors that only exist from June to September; how do we make the most of these less than ideal fishing conditions? Let’s dip our toes into some cooling ideas as we search for the silver linings to warm weather angling.

    Before we begin it’s important to mention part of being a responsible angler includes checking water temps and safety guidelines for your target species. Sun screen and protective clothing for your own skin are top priority right next to proper hydration. If all our duck feathers are in a row, make sure you use the bathroom one last time before jumping in that float tube. Please.

     When it’s too hot for the best fishing but you’d still like to get outside, now is your chance to explore some shaded streams with the kids. You’re already in the water so look under a couple small rocks for some simple bug lessons. An aquarium net and a mason jar become high tech lab equipment once you’re in the water. The importance of a resource is taught through experience. Share with someone the importance water carries for you. Once seen in practice concern for a resource also tends to be quite contagious. Much like the fun of catching bugs in a net.

     I want you to close you eyes. Take a deep breath. There is nobody else around. Travel to that dark, mysterious hidden place where your fly rod is rigged and waiting. The fish are feeding. The fly is a ringer. You can catch all the fish you want and your buddies will never know. That’s right... carp! Admit it, deny it, love it or hate it, carp fishing is a blast and I don’t care who knows it! If you’ve ever been curious about catching a carp and have shied away for whatever reason, now is the perfect time and excuse to give it a whirl. They eat everything. Everything. Including dry flies. Nothing is more fun and frustrating than watching the same fish push your grass hopper imitation 7 or 800 times before finally getting it down the gullet. And that’s if you’re fortunate enough to not spook them with your tippet shadow. Strong fish and they can be found pretty much anywhere.

     So we’ve done some fun things to enjoy the summer days, but there’s still that need to just catch a trout. Not only can it still be done, it can and should be relished. I’m not talking night fishing. That will be for another time. I want to look at the morning and evening hours. If you have a local stream or lake you can go early in the day and watch the fish rise with the sun. In the evening as things cool the fish once again play at their game. In these hours you’ll be inundated with seasonal flora and fauna in the very best light. If we stumble upon a few trout they are bound to be beautiful as well.

     Fishing in the summer doesn’t have to be miserable. With a few adjustments in thought and even gear there are always options that will strengthen our skills and in the long run make us better stewards of the fish and water we cherish. Try a new species. Drive a couple hours to cooler water. Enjoy the summer moments you can. Because soon we will be talking about fall patterns and winter prep.

Jun 10, 2021

Alexandra Warrior - TOO HOT

Two of the more productive flies I've fished have been the Alexandra and Rainbow Warrior. With variations both have produced in all types of water for many species. This fly is a culmination of those two classics. This size is meant for steelhead and large trout. Tying it smaller would work great for tail waters and lakes for any sized trout. Bass seem to like the larger version, perhaps as a baitfish fry imitation. Whatever size you choose, this fly will impress more than one of your fishing cohorts. Better yet it will impress all the fish. Thanks for tying along!

Materials List:

Hook: Ahrex XO774 Universal Curved size 6

Bead: Hareline Gritty Tungsten 5/32" Red

Weighted Wire: Non Lead .015

Thread: UniThread 6/0 Red

Tail and Wings: Hareline Peacock Sword

Body and Wing Case: Saltwater Flashabou Holographic Silver

Rib: UTC Ultra Wire Red size Medium

Thorax: Spawn Simi Seal Bleeding Black

Loon Hard Head

Loon UV Clear Fly Finish Thin

Step 1: Slip your bead onto the hook putting the hook point through the smaller opening first. Once the bead is on securely position your hook in the vise. Add 12 wraps of .015 non lead wire. Once you've trimmed and smoothed the edge of both cuts, push the wire wraps into the bach of the bead.

Step 2: Now begin your thread on the hook shank behind the wire wraps. Take 3 passes forward and back over the wire wraps to secure and then take your thread toward the hook bend almost halfway down the vertical section of the shank. At this point i like to temporarily reposition my hook for easier access to this spot. Make very tight X wraps at this spot to build a small thread bump. This bump will force our tail fibers to splay gently once tied in. Take 2 wraps forward with your thread once your thread bump is sufficient.

Step 3: Remove 5 peacock sword fibers from the quill with your scissors. Tie them on top of the hook shank so the tails are just a touch longer than the total body length of the bug. Trim the butt ends to match with the back side of the weighted wire.

Step 4: Tie in a 4 inch piece of red medium wire. This should also rest against the back side of the weighted wire. Be sure to tie down all the way to our previous wraps. This wire should remain on top of the hook shank to provide an even platform for our body wraps.

Step 5: Now we will tie in the Saltwater Flashabou just a bit behind the head with the majority of the material to the front of the fly. We do this so we can wrap our Flashabou down and back up over itself. Not only does this provide better material coverage, it also strengthens the body to survive some extra teeth. Once tied in add a very thin line of Super Glue or gel along the undebody. Very small amount here. We will be squishing the glue while we wrap, so we can not afford excess glue peeking out later.

Step 6: With touching or nearly touching wraps take the Flashabou all the way down the hook shank to the tail fibers.

Step 7: Now we will continue wrapping our way back up the hook shank, but this time using overlapping wraps. Once you've wrapped to almost behind the bead, tie off the flash with 2 thread wraps, gently pull the flash back over itself toward the hook bend and tie down the flash again with 2 more thread wraps. Trim the tag piece of Flashabou, but keep it nearby. We will use that for our wing case.

Step 8: Now we will counter wrap out ribbing wire. So whichever direction you wrapped your Flashabou, wrap the wire in the opposite direction. For this example the flash is wrapped away from me while the wire is wrapped coming toward me. Counter wrap. This is a very simple way of strengthening flies with multiple wrapped components. Tie off the wire with a few thread wraps, bend the wire back toward the hook bend and cut the excess wire. Much like tying off the flash, using that pull back technique will offer extra protection from that element being pulled free while fighting a fish.

Step 9: Tie in our tag end of Flashabou directly on top of the shank, behind the bead. Our thorax will be roughly 2 beads in length, so tie the Flashabou back about that distance.

Step 10: Add enough dubbing to your thread to have a noodle roughly 3 inches in length. Beginning behind the bead, we will take our thread wraps back to the rear of the wing case and then forward over itself to build a solid thorax that is uniform and strong.

Step 11: Now we will add 3 sword fibers to the near side of the body. These should be in line with the hook eye and reach to a point just shy of the tail fibers. Use 2 mid tension thread wraps so you can fine tune positioning after the other wing is tied in.

Step 12: Now tie in 3 sword fibers on the far side of the fly. Again these should run in line with the hook eye and almost touch the tail fibers.

Step 13: Pull your Flashabou over the dubbed thorax and tie down behind the bead with 2 thread wraps. Pull the flash back over itself and tie down securely, trim neatly and cover with thread wraps. Add 2 whip finishes and trim your thread. Add some Loon Hard Head to the thread wraps. For extra bubble effect on the wing case and some strength for the Flashabou body I like to make a very thin bead of Loon Thin resin from the base of the tail to behind the bead, but only on top of the fly. Cure with your UV torch and say hello to some fishy friends. Thanks for tying. See you on the water.

Thank you all for reading! Shop Spawn!