Spawn Blog

Some flies are tied for the fisher. Some are tied for the fish. This bug is definitely for the fish, but it's also fun to tie. Latex cut from a glove or...from a glove, makes an amazingly bug like body when cut into a strip and wrapped on a hook. There may be a benefit to hoarding a couple medical supplies after all. The coolest part when fishing this fly will be the wobbling action from the slotted Spawn Football Bead trying to keep the hook point up. You will have a bug that truly appears to be dislodged in the current and far too restible for fish to refuse. Have fun with this fly and add your own twist to make it fun for you. As always thanks so much for tying along and we'll look for you on the water!

Materials List:

Hook: Ahrex SA 280 sz 8

Bead: Spawn Fly Fish Slotted Tungsten Football Bead 5.5mm Crayfish Brown

Weighted Wire: NL .015

Thread(s): UTC White 70D and Dark Brown 70D

Body/Abdomen: Powder Free Latex strip cut from a glove

Body Top: Thin Skin Gator Brown/Black

Body Rib: Ultra Wire Small Copper/Brown

Thorax/Collar: Arizona Diamond Dub Dark Copper Mocha

Cement: Loon Hard Head or cement of your choice

*Optional*: Super Glue Gel for the weighted wire wraps

Step 1: Begin by slipping your bead onto your hook point first into the round opening. Once on securely place your hook in the vise and add 10 wraps of .015 NL wire behind the bead. If you wish you can place a very small amount of Super Glue Gel to the wire wraps that will sit snugly into the back of the bead. For this fly we will keep the rounded portion on the bead facing us so our finished fly will have the tendency to angle hook point up.

Step 2: Now start your white thread behind the thread wraps. We use white for this portion simply to not discolor the body tone. Add plenty of passes back and forth over the weighted wire wraps to secure them and wrap toward the hook point roughly 1/3 down the hook bend.

Step 3: Now let's add our ribbing wire. Cut a piece 5-6 inches for easy handling or a second fly and tie it in on the side of the hook. Which side is up to you, but for ease of visibility we'll use the near side facing us. I like to nestle the ribbing wire right up against the weighted wire wraps for the smoothest underbody transition. Be sure to wrap the wire all the way to your previous thread wraps.

Step 4: Cut a strip of Thin Skin a couple inches in length and roughly the width of the hook eye. Tie this in directly on the top of the hook shank. If it's not tied in straight at this point you may end up with quite a different bug after step 11. Again be sure to tie down all the way to your previous thread wraps.

Step 5: Using a powder free latex glove, carefully cut a strip just shy of 1/8" width. Cutting latex can be a bit tricky, but the longer you can make one single cut the easier it will be to manage. The key is to have one edge you can identify as straightish.

Step 6: Now let's tie in this latex strip. Two things are key to properly utilizing this material. There is a textured outer side to the latex which we will have against the hook shank as we tied it in. This way the texture will be facing outward when we wrap the body. The other key is that straightish edge we tried to cut. That straighter edge should be on the far side of the fly from where you are tying. As we wrap the latex that straighter edge will be our trailing line which will emulate the natural's body segmentation. Take your thread to behind the bead, whip finish and cut. Begin your Dark Brown thread directly behind the bead to tie down the body once it’s wrapped

Step 7: For the first wrap of the latex, and for any body wrapping you do that requires a rib, pull the wire rib forward to make sure one full pass of the body material is taken behind the wire. In this way we will ensure that our ribbing wire does not slip behind the body and make us question why we ever bought a vise.

Step 8: After you have that first complete wrap of latex behind the wire, pull the wire back toward the hook bend as you continue wrapping the latex in overlapping wraps all the way to behind the bead. Tie off the strip and trim the excess.

Step 9: Now pull forward the Thin Skin and tie down with 3-4 thread wraps behind the bead. We will leave the trimming until we've wrapped the wire in case we need any minor adjustments.

Step 10: Dorsal view after bringing forward the Thin Skin.

Step 11: We can now wrap our ribbing wire in evenly spaced wraps up the length of the body to behind the bead. If you look closely you can see how the wire has been tied down and bent back before trimming. Once tied down your wire will not slip out this way. Be mindful of the Thin Skin as you wrap the wire that it stays on top of the body and that you don't crease the near side as your wire tightens.

Step 12: Dorsal view after wire rib.

Step 13: Add enough Diamond Dub to your thread to form a tightly wrapped 2 inch dubbing noodle. Wrap this from behind the bead toward the hook bend roughly the same as the bead itself and then dub back to behind the bead. If the dub is too symmetrical you can pick some out or just rub it with your fingertips like I did for this little bug. Make a clean thread collar to secure all our previous additions and then add two whip finishes. Cut your thread and cover your thread wraps with some Loon Hard Head or cement of your choice. Time to go out and catch some fish. Thanks a million for tying along!

Tips on tying better flies.

Photo By: Sam Walker

     Before you get excited that I’m giving you an excuse to buy new tying gear, let me just say these tiny nuggets of tying knowledge will cost nothing. There are no secrets to tying great bugs, but there are some universal truths that when applied yield better flies. From beginner to expert we all need to be reminded now and then that with fly tying and fishing it’s often the simplest details that improve the outcome.

     First and foremost we all need to slow down. Unless you’re a commercial tyer or guide there aren’t many situations which call for fast tying techniques. When you slow down you begin to see where the thread is actually going. You won’t have nearly as many catastrophes if you slow down a beat or two. The tendency is to be more deliberate at a slower pace which happens to be exactly what we need for good flies.

     Back to seeing where the thread is actually going. You must watch where your thread is landing with each wrap. That may sound tedious, but with time it will become easier, but only if you consciously try to watch every single wrap. If you can see your thread wraps you will have better underbody tapers, cleaner tie in/off spots and gain a much better sense of feel in your tying hand. Each material you wrap will be done with slightly more care and precision because of the habit you create with better thread observation.

     Now that we are really watching our thread wraps the next step is to give each one a purpose. This is just as important with size 22 chironomids as it is with an 12/0 shark fly. Small bugs rely upon precise thread wraps that betray even the slightest bumps in an underbody. When tying feathered streamers, an errant, excess wrap can twist an entire section enough to not swim properly. For whatever reason, winding thread on a hook can be as mesmerizing and entertaining as popping bubble packing. What we need is for each thread wrap to mean something. It can be building a taper, securing in a material, tying off materials or to form a head. Outside of that we should have as few non essential wraps as possible. You’ll be amazed how much extra space you can find by reducing thread waste.

     The next thing we can use to improve our tying skill set can also be the most fun. OBSERVE! Find pictures of the real prey you’re emulating and notice the proportions and colorations. When you have the chance observe the real deal in person. What you can not get from seeing other people’s flies is the true sense of shape, segmentation or any myriad of other idiosyncrasies that can all be their own “Ah-ha!” moment in your tying. But also use your improved Thread Wrap Vision to notice the things you can exclude from your flies. This translates to better prey observance on your local waters. Better flies beget better fishing.

     Last in my rant of frugal methods to finer angling would have to deal with the strength and cleanliness of your flies. This is actually a matter of honesty between the tyer and the fly. After you’ve tied more than five or six flies you begin to gain a sense of when an ingredient has been properly added to a hook and conversely if it has slipped a tiny bit to the left or could have been slightly longer. These and 50 other decisions will be made before you add cement to your whip finishes. Use each one of those decisive moments to remind yourself to slow down just a touch and really see where you’re wrapping that material or how many fibers really DO get trapped. In the end you’ll tie better flies and learn to improve how you see. Not bad for doing what you already do just a little better. See you on the water.

If it swims in saltwater, it probably eats shrimp. Let's tie a shrimp fly. Shrimp flies can range from ultra realistic to barely recognizable and all will catch fish. This fly sits in the middle with equal parts function and form. The Soft Top Shrimp is similar to tying a Simi Seal Leech with just a few extra steps. The small amount of extra patience will pay big dividends in the net. Have fun tying the Soft Top Shrimp and enjoy watching the fish devour it! Thanks for tying along.

Materials List:

Hook: Umpqua XS 506 size 1

Bead: Spawn Slotted Tungsten Football Bead Shrimp Peach 7.5mm

Thread: UniThread 6/0 Gray

Eyes: Homemade mono eyes or pre made shrimp eyes

Dubbings: Spawn Simi Seal in Pete's Peach, Seal the Deal and White/Silver

Flash: Flashabou Accent Silver

Antennae and Tail: Nature's Spirit Select Bucktail Medium Dun

Legs: Grizzly Micro Legs Smoke

Shell/Carapace: Hareline Spawn's Southern Fl. Peach Ostrich Herls

Cement: Loon Hard Head

Weighted Wire: .020 NL

Step 1:

Slip your Spawn Football bead onto your hook before placing in the vise. Once in the vise add 15 wraps of .020 non lead wire on the hook shank. Add a very small dab of superglue gel if desired to the wraps that will fit inside the bead. When you slide the wire wraps into the bead cavity, make sure the slot is facing upward and the fullest part of the bead is on the bottom to fully utilize the bead's design.

Step 2: Begin your thread behind the wire wraps. Cover the wire wraps with thread in first diagonal wraps for two passes followed by parallel wraps for a pass or two. The diagonal wraps will help secure the wire from separating and the parallel wraps will bring them all together for a secure underbody. Take your thread to the hook bend and continue for 3-4 wraps.

Step 3: Add enough Pete's Peach Simi Seal to your thread to form a noodle roughly 3 inches long. Using figure 8 wraps make a very dense, strong ball with your dubbing noodle. This will act as our prop for separating the eyes and allow the other materials to flow properly for the shrimp effect we're after.

Step 4: Tie in a very small clump of Seal the Deal Spawn Simi Seal on the top of the shank. Using 3 wraps of thread, we will tie this clump to the shank in the center of the fibers. Carefully coax the fibers to sit either side of the hook point.

Step 5: Before we veil the Simi Seal, take your thread one or two wraps in front of the Simi Seal clump, toward the bead. Now the thread will not slip as you bring the remaining fibers toward the hook point while maintaining thread tension with your tying hand. Once the fibers are dispersed to both sides of the hook point a few more thread wraps will secure our first dubbing veil.

Step 6: Using another small clump of Seal the Deal, repeat the same process on the underside of the hook shank. Comb out after tying in to remove any loose fibers.

Step 7: Now we will tie in the mono eye on the near side of the hook shank. First tie the mono so the eye is roughly reaching the end of our dubbing veils. This puts the mono on the side of the hook nearest you. As you tie back toward the bead, take the mono to the other side of the shank, securing with tight thread wraps as you go. By tying in the mono this way it will be very difficult for the eyes to collapse toward each other. The other key is to take a wrap of thread in front of the eye and secure down behind the eye. Just another step to prevent those pieces of mono from meeting in the midline. I like to trim the mono even with the end of the weighted wire wraps for a smoother underbody.

Step 8: Side view after tying in first eye.

Step 9: Repeat that process for the eye on the other side of the shank. When finished you should have two eyes angling away from the hook shank and ready to attract the fish.

Step 10: Add 10-12 pieces of Flashabou Accent to the top of the hook shank. These should be trimmed unevenly at the ends and reach just past our Simi Seal veils at the longest.

Step 11: Add a small amount of bucktail on top of the hook shank. Theses fibers should not be evened with a packer. They should reach just past the flash and must remain on the top of the hook shank. If they begin to creep down the sides now they will be a mess after the next three steps. I like to tie the fibers back toward the bead, pull them to the underside of the shank and then trim for a subtle tail shape.

Step 12: Now tie in three legs to each side of the hook shank. These should be snugged up all the way to our last thread wraps used on the bucktail.

Step 13: Carefully make a thread loop for our dubbing loop in a couple steps. It's not easy to see in the photo, but the empty thread loop is tied just behind the legs, but because of the weighted spinner in the bottom of the loop appears to be on the other side. Take your working thread to behind the bead.

Step 14: Now we will build our underbody which will help our color effect in the water and also give our dubbing loop something to grab onto as when we get to that point. This is simply a matter of adding enough White/Silver Spawn Simi Seal to your thread to dub down to the legs and back to the bead. This will require adding dubbing to your thread a few times. Try to maintain an even dubbing noodle to produce an even underbody.

Step 15: After arranging your peach Simi fibers to be stacked in the loop, carefully slip them inside the thread loop, spin, gently brush out and spin a few more times. This is what you should be looking for more or less. The dubbing stack I prepared was roughly 4 inches in length and evenly sparse the whole way. We don't want to get overly full on our dubbing loop!

Step 16: Now we can wrap our dubbing loop body, but carefully take the first wrap on the other side of the rubber legs(toward the hook bend). After that first wrap go to the bead side of the legs and continue wrapping the dubbing loop in touching turns to behind the bead. All the while as you are wrapping your loop your off hand should be gently guiding the Simi fibers toward the hook bend. Tie off your thread loop and trim away the excess. With time you'll be able to gauge the amount of dubbing needed according to the hook you're using. No replacement for experience.

Step 17: Now get in there with a small brush or tooth brush or velcro on a wooden stick or whatever you want to brush out the fibers that may be trapped by thread and to remove any loose fibers no longer attached. After taking out your daily aggression on the brushing, it's only fitting to gently comb the fibers toward the hook point so we may calmly finish our sophisticated shrimp fly.

Step 18: Right on top of the hook shank and fly body we will tie in 10-12 ostrich herls. Nothing crazy here, just try to have some uneven ends and make a neat trim with the scissors after tying down. Make a tidy thread collar and add two whip finishes. Loon Hard Head or cement of your choice to cover the thread wraps. Now for the toughest 60 seconds involved in tying this fly... let the cement fully dry.

Step 19: In reward for your patience in letting your cement dry, you may now dip your shrimp into some nice clean water. You have tied a tasty morsel that will fool fish any time you are in the salt. Hope you learned a little and enjoyed a bunch. Thanks for tying along!

Cul de Canard; what exactly is it and do you have enough?

     What do we know about CDC feathers? At the very least you’ve probably heard or read about the floating qualities of CDC feathers, but why do they float so well? And are there other applications?

     In French, Cul de Canard translates to duck bottom, or duck’s butt. What also happens to be near the duck’s bottom is the preen gland which produces preen oil. This oil is used by ducks and other floating birds to spread on their feathers to remain more buoyant. The CDC feathers are found around the preen gland and have the highest concentration of preen oil. Hence the superior floating quality. This is also why we don’t use regular floatants on CDC flies; the floatant will cancel any buoyancy offered by the preen oil. A couple false casts is all you need to effectively dry out soggy CDC feathers. You can also switch flies to dry the wet one or use a desiccant powder made specifically for CDC application. Often times flies tied with CDC perform their best when a bit water heavy. On dries and emergers the wet CDC holds that fly body in the water’s surface. Insert fish explosion...now!

     Now let’s dive under the water’s surface to see what else these magical feathers can offer. When you look at the fibers of a CDC feather you notice many barbules. These barbules act as little hands which clutch and trap tiny air bubbles. Under water as these bubbles cling to the side of the fly or trail off behind the fly they replicate the escaping gasses exhibited in bugs that are hatching or switching cases or progressing through a larval or pupal stage. This in turn triggers a predatory response in your target fish. The small offering of air holding barbules can make all the difference between fishing and catching, especially on tail waters or over highly educated fish.

     Of all the wonderful, natural materials we can put on a hook to catch fish the CDC feather is one of my favorites. You can strip it to tie in a clump, wrap the feathers directly on the hook or even slip some CDC into your favorite dubbing loop. There really is no bad way to incorporate some. Try adding some CDC to your commonly fished patterns and be prepared to meet some new fishy friends you may have missed before. CDC is the bee’s knees. Well, duck’s butt.

Who doesn't enjoy a good crab or shrimp fly? The real find for me is a pattern like the Beach Bug, designed by Eric Balser out of Mount Vernon, WA. This fly replicates immature crab and shrimp on another level. SImple to tie, catches tons of fish and is easily adaptable to any water situation with color or weight change. That's a winning fly. If you've stayed away from crab or shrimp flies, this is a great pattern to learn for confidence on the vise and on the water. Thanks for tying along and enjoy this amazing pattern.

Materials List:

Hook: Umpqua XS 506 size 6

Bead: Spawn Fly Fish Slotted Tungsten Football Bead 6mm Crayfish Brown

Thread: UniThread Camel 6/0

Weighted Wire: NL .015

Eyes: Hareline Mono Eyes Large

Head/Body: Spawn UV Ghost Shrimp and Spawn Ghost Shrimp Simi Seal

Shell(s): Hen Pheasant Neck Feather

Sealant: Liquid Fusion

Step 1: Slip your Football Bead onto your hook with the point going through the small hole first. Once securely in the vise, add 12 wraps of .015 non lead wire, trim both ends and smooth and then slide into the back of the bead to secure. We want the full bottom of the bead on the underside of the jig hook and the slot on what will be the top of our fly.

Step 2: Begin your thread behind your wire wraps and proceed to cover the wire wraps with some angled thread wraps before some stronger wraps that run parallel with the wire. Take your thread down to the hook bend.

Step 3: Tie in 8-10 Jumbo Guinea Fibers so the natural curve will follow the hook bend. Once we wrap over them with some dubbing the effect will be slightly more noticeable, so no need to wrap down too far.

Step 4: Now we will add a pair of Mono Eyes on the inside of the hook shank. Use figure 8 wraps followed by wraps in front and behind the eyes. Tying them on the inside of the shank allows for some extra abuse before they are removed.

Step 5: Add enough UV Ghost Shrimp Simi Seal to your thread to form a tight, 3 inch dubbing noodle. Use this to wrap around and in front and behind the eyes. Now take your thread to behind the bead.

Step 6: Now we will make another dubbing noodle using the regular Ghost Shrimp Simi. This body will be dubbed to the head and mono eyes and dubbed over itself back to behind the bead.

Step 7: Gently brush out the head and body Simi fibers. No need to trim or get too crazy with the fibers at this point. We'll mash them down when we add the feather shell.

Step 8: Remove 2 matching feathers from the neck, or collar section of a hen pheasant. Once trimmed the feather should reach from the bead to just past the Mono Eyes.

Step 9: Tie in a feather on the top side of the fly. Two gentle wraps for placement followed by a couple stronger thread wraps should keep your feather from turning.

Step 10: Dorsal view after tying in.

Step 11: Now repeat the process on the bottom side of the hook. Once the excess feather has been trimmed, make a neat thread neck and tie off with two whip finishes.

Step 12: To finish this fly you can use resin, cement or even nail hardener. But my favorite way to finish this fly is with a healthy dose of Liquid Fusion coated over the thread wraps, base of each feather and slightly pulled up the quill on each. This provides minimal protection to the feather fibers, but it adheres the quill and Simi Seal together nicely. Let the Liquid Fusion dry for a full 24 hours for the strongest bond before you start feeding these to your favorite crab and shrimp lovers.

Spawn Blog

Grubby Larva SBS

Tips for Tying Better Flies

Soft Top Shrimp Step by Step!

Cul de Canard; what exactly is it and do you have enough?

Beach Bug!