Spawn Blog

Read more

Over the last year and a half we have stocked thousands of fly tying products. Some are brand new and others are timeless classics that every fly tier needs. Not many products get me as excited as this new product does.

Last week, I recieved a phone call from a local Washington number. I answered and on the other end heard, "Is this Spawn Fly Fish?" I promptly said yes and then was informed I was speaking to Al Wood, owner and founder of Atomic Glow. I was honest with him, I had never heard of his product. He told me all about it, although interested, I shared my skepticism of glow-in-the-dark fly tying products. I told him we carried a variety of glow in dark products, but that none of them work quite like the one he's describing. I agreed to meet with him in person and we then sat down for coffee a few days later.

His product sells itself. The second I was handed a bag of his products my mind began to race. For over a year, we have tried to find glow-in-the-dark additions to our Spawn Heads. Atomic Glow is the answer. But Atomic Glow goes far beyond just our heads, this product has a huge range of possibilities. Al stated that the glow lasts for several hours after a simple 5 minute charge. I have put that to the test and am beyond impressed. I would still recommend bringing a UV Light with you to increase glow intensity intermittently through the night.

This product truly glows in the dark. 

Below I have shown several uses for this product, but I know that you all will find hundreds of ways to incorporate this product into your fly tying and fly fishing arsenal. 

Translucent Spawn Heads and Atomic Glow are a match made in heaven. Finish your fly with Atomic Glow to shine through the translucent head. For the best results, add lead free wraps near the eye of the hook to create some bulk. Once the lead free wraps are secure, wrap the Atomic Glow forward to the front of the eye. Once you are at this point, fit the Spawn Head over the eye to ensure a snug fit. Then, simply add gorilla glue or your favorite water-based super glue. If you need to create a tighter fit, add a thin veil of Chernobyl Dub!

This second fly I'd like to call a "Fire Fly." This fly is a basic Gurgler Fly that glows in the dark. Off the back is a small amount of craft fur. I then adhered the Atomic Glow Sheet to a section of thin fly foam. The body is made of wraps of Atomic Glow. You now have a popper that you can see disappear at night as a large predatory fish swallows it in the dark of night.

Overall my initial skepticism was wiped away and Atomic Glow truly glows in the dark. If you like to fish at night or send flies deep into the darkness of the water then this is a product you need to try. 

Atomic Glow Buy NOW!

Read more

Spawn Fly Head Articulated Trout Streamer (The NUMBSKULL)

By: Jesse Males

When I first found out that you could catch big hungry trout on a 5-7” articulated streamer pattern I knew I was going to fall in love with tossing these big old flies downriver. Big streamer flies have long been my passion both in saltwater and for bass fishing, and now more recently for trout!

The NUMBSKULL is an articulated trout fly that is finished off with the Spawn Fly Head and is meaty enough to drive big hungry trout absolutely bonkers!

Below is an HD Step-by-Step fly tying video that takes you through the steps you need to whip up some of these bad larry’s for your next fishing trip!

Material List:

Thread: 210 Flat Wax Nylon

Hooks: Substitute B10s or Ahrex TP610

Tail Top: Tan Rabbit Strip

Tail Bottom: Gold Ice Dub

Tail Front: Tan 3/4” Tan Polar Fiber Brush

 Wire: Intruder Wire Grey (coming to our site soon!)

 Beads: LG Beads

 Body Top: Tan Zonker Strip

Body Bottom: Gold Ice Dub

 Legs: Grizzly Barred Flutter Legs

 Body Front: Tan 3/4” Tan Polar Fiber Brush

Spaw Head: Crash Test Yummy- Yellow

As you can see, these fish heads are a great way to finish off a nice steamer pattern and help at add a bit of realism and profile to the fly.

If you liked the fly tying video, be sure to check out more fly tying information at www.backwaterflyfishing.com.

You can also purchase my favorite saltwater flies at www.backwaterflies.com.

Until next time…HAPPY TYING and TIGHT LINES!!!

Jesse Males 

Not only does Jesse tie some amazing flies but he also guides on destination trips. If fly travel is your thing, then be sure to visit Jesse's guiding website for Costa Rica at www.506outdoors.com.

Read more

Pete's The Right Angle Crayfish - Step By Step Fly Tying Tutorial

Tied, Written, & Photographed by Pete Rosenau (@blueriverflies)

90 Degree Shank Version

The 90 degree shank from Spawn Fly Fish makes tying an articulated crayfish simple and effective. For this fly I’ve attached the hook directly to the shank. The weight on the shank is dependent upon the depth you’re seeking. Hope you enjoy tying this crayfish!

Spawn Twitch Shank Version

If you’re fishing conventional gear or ice fishing or heavy fly gear try using the 1/8 Oz Twitch Shank to finish the Right Angle Cray. Different weights are available to get your crayfish down as fast as you please. Saves the time of tying on a dumbbell and moves this fly like CRAY-zy.

All Materials Used:

Hook: Ahrex TP610 Trout Predator Streamer Hook - Size 2

Shank: Spawn 90 Degree Jig Shank - 20 mm (For Version #1)

             Spawn Twitch Shank - 1/8th oz - 20 mm (For Version #2)

Eyes: Hareline Heavy Lead Eyes - Black - Large

           Hareline Epoxy Mono Crab Eyes - Black

Thread: UNI 6/0 Waxed Thread - Rusty Brown

Dubbing: John Rohmer's Arizona Simi Seal Dubbing - Canadian Orange

Flash: Hareline Krystal Flash - Copper

Bucktail: Nature’s Spirit Select Large Bucktail - Burnt Orange

Claws: Hareline Micro Pulsator Rabbit Strips - Black Barred Crawfish Orange

Body and Tail: Hareline Crosscut Rabbit Strips - Crawfish Orange

Head Cement: Loon Hard Head - Clear

***For All Fly Tying Materials Used - Click Here To Shop***

Fly Tying Step By Step Tutorial: 

Step 1

To create some separation of materials away from the hook we’ll start by veiling two clumps of Canadian Orange Simi Seal. Use slightly larger clumps than you think you need. This is the foundation of the profile we’re trying to achieve.

Step 2

Veil a clump of Simi Seal on both the top and bottom of the hook just past the hook barb. Make sure your thread wraps are secure and add a little head cement. Keep in mind there are a lot of steps and time involved with big flies. Secure with cement any chance you get to prolong the life of your fly.

Step 3

For the flash I cut 4 strands of Copper Krystal Flash. Cut those in half and then veil the 8 strands on top of the shank which is the bottom since we’re tying this hook point up. Once your other materials are tied in you may wish to trim, but for now the flash should be fine after you split it to either side of the hook.

Step 4

Now we’re ready for the bucktail to replicate the crayfish head and hint of shell. You can see next to the bodkin it is a substantial clump of hair. Roughly two pencil thicknesses should suffice.

Step 5

Bucktail tied in at roughly the same length as the hook and separate shank combined. Keep the bucktail on top of the hook and evenly splayed on both sides of the hook. Add a thin layer of cement to really lock down that bucktail.

Step 6

Now for the eyes. Use the natural bend of the mono stem when tying in eyes. We want the curve to bring the eyes forward and slightly leaning away from the hook. After tying in both sides trim your mono and wrap down securely followed by another thin layer of cement.

Step 7

One way I like to control eye stems of the like is to use a small amount of dubbing. Here I’ve loaded a 3-4 inch noodle with the Canadian Orange Simi Seal. That gives me enough to figure 8 twice between the mono eye stems along with securing wraps after each. This solidifies your eye positions as well as adds volume once we brush it out in a later step.

Step 8

After tying in the Simi Seal you can see how we’ve now created a space to keep our rabbit strip claws away from not only the eyes but also the hook point.

Step 9

Wrap in a micro rabbit strip on both sides. The fur should be flowing away from the body. Start with each strip slightly longer than the hook and shank combined. You can trim after completing the fly if needed. Using the dubbing bump we made in the last step tie down the micro strips to cover the dubbing.

Step 10

And once again make a dubbing noodle and go between the fly body and each rabbit claw two times.

Step 11

Now is the time to brush out all the Simi Seal we’ve been layering between materials. This not only adds attractive flash but also creates the illusion of volume and profile.

Step 12

Before you tie in your crosscut rabbit strip make sure the fur is pointing to the left with the leather looking at you. Remove any loose hairs and clean a 1/4 inch tie in area on your rabbit strip. Here I’ve marked with a dot the beginning of the hair in the leather. As you can see once I’ve tied in the rabbit it will match up perfectly abutted to the previous materials.

Step 13

Wrap you rabbit strip back in touching wraps to the hook eye. Make a clean tie off and 2-3 whip finishes. Coat with cement. Always be sure to comb out your rabbit after the cement has dried completely.

Step 14 - (90 Degree Shank Version)

Slip the hook onto the shank so both the hook point and the shank eye are pointing upward. Securely tie down the open shank and add large dumbbell eyes to the underside of the shank. After cementing and drying, tie in another crosscut rabbit strip and wrap just as you did the body.

Step 14 - (Twitch Shank Version)

Same application if you’re using the 1/8 Oz Twitch Shank. Secure with thread and cement. Wrap shank with crosscut rabbit strip. Trim and cement after 2-3 whip finishes.

After wrapping the 90 Degree Shank version!

After wrapping the Twitch Shank Version!

For Any Questions Please Email: pete@spawnflyfish.com

Read more

Pete's Pink & Chartreuse Simi Seal Clouser - Step By Step Fly Tying Tutorial

Bob Clouser’s minnow pattern is undoubtedly one of the most productive flies ever tied. This is simply one variation of which there are no end. By adding a small impression of an underbelly using a dubbing loop with Simi Seal you can quickly add profile or simply change up colors to match your destination. In saltwater tarpon, snook, permit, bonefish and so many other species will nail this fly. In freshwater large trout, bass, pike, steelhead and salmon will gladly partake.

Tied, Written, & Photographed by Pete Rosenau (@blueriverflies)

All Materials Used:

Hook: Gamakatsu SL12S - Size #2

Eyes: Hareline Brass Dumbbell Eyes - Fluorescent Yellow Chartreuse - Large

Thread: UNI 6/0 Waxed Thread - Pink

+ John Rohmer's Arizona Simi Seal Dubbing - Chartreuse

+ John Rohmer's Arizona Simi Seal Dubbing - Pink

+ Hareline Krystal Flash - Chartreuse

+ Hareline Krystal Flash - UV Pink

+ Nature’s Spirit Select Large Bucktail - Fluorescent Hot Pink 

+ Nature's Spirit Select Large Bucktail - Fluorescent Lime

+ Loon Hard Head - Clear

***For All Materials Used - Click Here***

Fly Tying Step By Step Tutorial: 

Step 1

Tie in your dumbbell eyes. Leave roughly 1/8 inch behind the hook eye. Tying the eyes on the top side of the shank will allow the hook to ride point up. Cover with your cement and allow to dry. It’s helpful to further your consistency and overall skills if you tie up 6 or 12 at a time. You’ll become much better at judging pinches of bucktail and dubbing amounts for sure.

Step 2

Tie in a small amount of Fl. Lime bucktail at a point parallel to the hook barb. After trimming and tying down the butts make a thread loop at the tie in spot for the tail. Make a loop roughly 5 inches to leave yourself a bit of extra tie off space.

Step 3

Align some of the Simi Seal and thinly pull enough to make roughly 2 inches height wise of both colors. 4 inches total Simi Seal.

Step 4

Carefully place your dubbing into the loop. As with most loops error on the thin side with your materials. The reason behind this version of the Clouser was to offer the slightest impression of a belly. A small amount of dubbing goes a long way.

Step 5

Completely spin up your loop with your spinning tool. Don’t worry too much about picking out the fibers for this application. Just make sure to brush thoroughly after wrapping the loop up the shank.

Step 6

Wrap you loop carefully in touching wraps and tie off just behind the eyes. After trimming and securing the tag of your loop brush out your Simi Seal and coax the fibers back toward the tail of the fly. Dipping your fingertips in water will help train the fibers as well as remove loose dubbing fibers.

Step 7

Add flash to the top of the fly in front of the eyes. The amount of flash is up to you. On this fly I’m veiling 5 strands of Krystal Flash. 3 strands of UV Pink and 2 strands of Fl. Chartreuse. Try to keep your thread wraps strong and efficient. We don’t want much bulk knowing the bucktail still awaits.

Step 8

Tie on a small amount of Fl. Pink bucktail. The amount should be roughly twice the thickness of what you used for the tail. Make sure to split the hairs onto either side of the hook point as evenly as possible before really cranking down on the thread. After it’s positioned properly trim the butts closely and wrap a neat thread head. Seal with the cement or resin of your choice.

Step 9

After your head cement has dried dip your Simi Clouser in water to help all the fibers and bucktail get used to their future underwater positions. Such a simple take on a classic fly, but sometimes having something slightly different is all it takes.

For Any Questions Please Email: pete@spawnflyfish.com

Read more